There’s one thing all dermatologists agree on: Retinol is the gold standard in skin care. Retinoids, which are derivatives of vitamin A of different potencies, have the ability to exfoliate the upper layer of the epidermis at high speed, which promotes collagen production, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, attenuates hyperpigmentation and treats acne.
Retinoids may come highly recommended by professionals, but there are a number of important rules that skin experts want to remember before you incorporate the miracle ingredient into your routine for the first time. of care – and it would be a really good idea to stick to it. We share our top five recommendations for incorporating retinol into your skincare routine … because no one wants to end up with sore, scaly skin when the goal is to achieve clear, healthy skin.
Expect a “skin purge “
When a strong retinol is prescribed in the clinic, there is almost always what is called a skin purge. It is important to know this, that it’s going to pass – it’s just all this congestion that comes out. It usually results in rashes – sometimes severe. Vitamin A is very effective in clearing comedones, those pores clogged with the build-up of sebum and keratin that can occur under the skin. Form of “closed” buttons of flesh color or black dots, white dots and small red “open” buttons.
Once this process has started, the skin becomes more inflamed and red because the skin realizes that something is changing, and therefore turns those little pimples into bigger, redder ones – so if you hadn’t noticed your clogged pores under your skin before, you are about to discover them x 10. “For some people it can be very intense, but the problem goes away pretty quickly, which is why I always warn my patients that with acne things get worse before they get better.”
Find the right dosage
[Bleeding from the skin] is less likely to occur with a milder form of retinol.
Whatever the intensity of your “purge”, this phase should not last too long. “The length of time is different for everyone, and depends on your skin type and the amount of clogged pores. “The first four to six weeks of retinol use are often the worst, but things tend to stabilize soon after.”
It really pays to gradually increase your dose of retinol. “Listen to your skin and combine retinol with other products”. We recommend that sensitive skin begin with bi-weekly use, mixing a few drops with your favorite moisturizer after cleansing the face. “If you don’t have a reaction, you can switch to one use every other day.” You can even apply the product neat to the skin and apply the moisturizer afterwards. ”
Reduce the use of other assets
Use caution in your skin care blends if you’re new to retinol. “For my part, I would be inclined to reduce the other assets, such as AHAs and BHAs (exfoliating acids). Thus, retinol is better tolerated.” But the border can be thin. A slight peeling and redness suggests that the product is working, but the skin should not be attacked too much. You should always apply sunscreen during the day, as retinol can increase your skin’s sensitivity to UV rays.
Avoid the eye area
This is often the first area where you notice effects – and that includes redness and sore, scaly skin. A very mild retinol can be very helpful for this area, but at first it’s best to avoid the area around the eyes and lips, and gradually increase the dose. Always apply a cream around the lips and eyes beforehand to act as a protective barrier.
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