Every December, the red lipstick returns right on schedule. It shows up in beauty campaigns, party-ready makeup looks and bathroom mirrors, carrying with it the promise of instant polish. For decades, a red lip has been the quickest way to feel dressed, intentional and festive. Yet on TikTok, the narrative has shifted. According to the algorithm, red lipstick is suddenly “out”, dismissed as unflattering, intimidating or simply not for everyone.

But the discomfort around red lips is not new. Red has always been a statement colour. It announces presence, demands confidence and refuses to blend quietly into the background. As celebrity makeup artist Kim Baker puts it, a red lip is not shy. It arrives before you do. For many people, seeing themselves that boldly can feel unfamiliar, even overwhelming, which is often mistaken for the colour not working.

Makeup artists, however, are not buying the internet’s verdict. To them, the issue is rarely the lipstick itself. More often, it is the shade choice. Red lipstick is not a single colour but an entire spectrum, and wearing the wrong undertone can throw off an otherwise beautiful look. When the right red is applied, Baker says, the effect is immediate. The face softens, the eyes brighten and the energy shifts. It is not magic, just good colour theory.

@anja_tillmanns

wish i could pull it off without looking like i’m going on stage for a jazz solo #redlip #falllipstick #lipcombo #fallmakeup

♬ original sound – arcadia

Celebrity makeup artist Scott Barnes echoes this sentiment. A red lip, he explains, can look extraordinary when done well and completely wrong when done poorly. The difference lies in undertones. Looking at figures like Taylor Swift and Rihanna makes this clear. Both wear red lipstick frequently, but never the same kind of red. Each chooses shades that complement their skin, not fight against it.

@maya_galore

Black women 🤝🏾 a red lip 💋 Which one is your favorite!?? My favorite red lipstick shades from @thelipbar ❤️ Shades shown: Hot Mama Brickhouse Bawse Lady Boy Trouble Rebel #redlipstick #thelipbar #makeupforblackwomen #makeuptok

♬ original sound – BeyNet

For professional makeup artist and Black Radiance brand ambassador Tiesha Williams, red lipstick is far more inclusive than TikTok suggests. In her work, blue-based reds tend to flatter fair to medium skin tones, while orange-based reds often shine on deeper complexions. Still, she is careful to note that these are guidelines, not rules. The most important part of wearing red lipstick is how it makes you feel. Comfort and confidence matter more than any chart.

The idea that red lipstick should work on everyone in the same way is part of the problem. Beauty is not universal in application, even when it is iconic in history. Red lips have long symbolised power, rebellion and self-expression across cultures, particularly for women who used beauty as a form of agency. That legacy deserves nuance, not trend-driven dismissal.

red

In the end, red lipstick is neither in nor out. It is simply a choice. One that asks for intention, experimentation and a little patience. And while makeup artists insist that there is a red for everyone, the real freedom lies in knowing that you do not have to wear it at all.

Author

Daniel Usidamen is Fashion Editor & Chief Critic at La Mode Magazine. Known for his sharp takes and unapologetic voice, he writes about runway moments, rising African designers, and the cultural pulse of fashion on the continent. Expect insight, a little sass, and zero filter.

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